When people say they want to visit the Sahara Desert in Morocco, they usually mean one of two places: Merzouga (gateway to Erg Chebbi) or Zagora (gateway to Erg Zgid and the Draa Valley). Both are magnificent. But they are different in ways that matter when planning your trip.
Erg Chebbi is what most people picture when they imagine the Sahara. These are the famous dunes — massive, orange, up to 150 metres high — that appear in travel photography and tourism campaigns. The dune field is compact (about 22km long and 5km wide), which means the most spectacular scenery is accessible in a short camel trek from town. Merzouga itself is a small village at the edge of the sand, with accommodation ranging from basic guesthouses to luxury desert lodges.
Zagora sits at the southern end of the Draa Valley, Morocco's longest river valley, and its dunes at Erg Zgid are smaller and less dramatic than Erg Chebbi but significantly less crowded. The journey to Zagora from Marrakech takes you through one of Morocco's most beautiful landscapes — 150km of palm oases, ancient kasbahs, and Berber villages. Zagora is for travellers who prioritise tranquillity over spectacle.
Merzouga receives far more tourists than Zagora. At peak season, the main dune at Erg Chebbi can feel crowded around sunrise and sunset, with dozens of camel trekking groups converging on the same ridge. Zagora, by contrast, offers the possibility of a sunrise completely alone, with nothing but your guide and the sand. If solitude is your priority, Zagora is the answer.
From Marrakech: Zagora is about 7 hours, Merzouga is 9–10 hours. From Fes: Merzouga is closer, at around 7–8 hours, while Zagora would require backtracking. From Casablanca: both require a full day's drive. If you are based in Marrakech and have only two days, Zagora is the more manageable option. If you have three or more days, Merzouga is worth the extra travel time.
Choose Merzouga if: you want the most dramatic dune scenery, you are travelling from Fes, or you have seen photographs of the big orange dunes and they are specifically what you came for. Choose Zagora if: you value peace and authenticity over size, you are based in Marrakech, or you want the experience of the Draa Valley as a centrepiece of your journey rather than just a driving route.
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Mustapha Oufota
Berber desert guide and founder of Sahara Desert Travel — born and raised in the Draa Valley
